The queen ant is the reproductive center of the colony. She lays the eggs that develop into workers and keeps the colony growing over time. Without a healthy queen, the colony cannot continue to develop.

“Brood” refers to the developing young in a colony, including eggs, larvae, and pupae.

It depends on the species and environment, but it usually takes several weeks to a few months for the first workers to emerge.

In a standard test tube setup, part of the tube is filled with water and sealed with cotton. Moisture passes through the cotton and provides both humidity and a drinking source for the colony.

Most colonies need both sugar and protein. Sugar can come from honey, sugar water, or ant nectar, while protein is commonly provided through feeder insects such as mealworms or crickets.

A light feeding every 5–7 days works well for many colonies, although the exact schedule depends on species, colony size, and growth stage. During early founding, offer only very small amounts.

Keep disturbance to a minimum, especially during the founding stage. In most cases, a brief check once a week is enough. Frequent shaking, moving, or opening can stress the colony.

It is best not to. Handling the queen, eggs, larvae, or pupae can cause stress or damage. Too much disturbance may also reduce egg-laying or affect colony development.

Do not move them too early. It is usually best to wait until the colony has clearly outgrown the test tube or is difficult to maintain there. A nest that is too large too early can cause unnecessary stress.

Start small. A nest that is too large can make the colony feel exposed and make care more difficult. As your colony grows, you can expand step by step into a larger or modular setup.

The safest method is usually to connect the old setup to the new one and let the colony move naturally. Keeping the new setup dark and comfortable while exposing the old one to more light can help encourage the move.

A temporary pause can be normal, especially during colder conditions or seasonal slowdowns. Make sure the colony has stable temperature, proper feeding, water, and minimal stress.

Mould is not always an emergency. If the colony is behaving normally and not avoiding the affected area, it may not be serious. If they appear stressed or cluster away from the mould, it may be time to prepare a fresh setup.

Common signs include unusual inactivity, erratic movement, repeated escape attempts, poor feeding response, or reduced egg-laying. Stress is often caused by disturbance, poor humidity, or unsuitable temperatures.

Both can work well, but they offer different benefits. Ytong nests typically retain moisture longer and may require less frequent watering. 3D printed nests are popular for their modern design, visibility, and modular flexibility.

Some species benefit from substrate in the outworld, especially if you want a more natural environment. However, substrate is usually not recommended inside test tubes.

Yes. Many keepers begin with a small setup, then add an outworld, more chambers, or a larger nest as the colony develops. Expanding gradually is usually the best approach.

In most cases, one healthy queen is enough to start a colony.

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